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Background:
As with most tasks, the adequacy and thoroughness of the preparations determine to a great
extent the successfulness of the venture. Boxwoods have a root system which is very
conducive to transplanting. It is fibrous, roughly equal in diameter to the drip line of
the plant, with a depth of approximately one third to one half the height of the plant The
most ideal time to transplant boxwoods is the fall, and spring is the next preference. The
reason for this time schedule is that if moved during September, the root system has
October and November to begin establishing itself even though the top appears dormant. Any
break in the weather during the winter months will bring about root growth and the spring
months prior to the flush will be accompanied by root growth. This level of root
development is very important in preparation for the dual stresses of heat and drought
which the summer will place on the plant. Therefore, spring transplanting leaves much less
time for this important root development Actually a break in the weather during the winter
when the ground is not frozen is an acceptable time to move plants as long as the major
cold of winter is thought to be past, i.e. mid to late February for most of the
Mid-Atlantic states.
Preparation: If one knows six to twelve months prior to
transplanting that plants are to be moved, root pruning is a practice which may be
beneficial. A spade is inserted to it’s full depth around the circumference of the
root ball just inside the drip line of the plant. No attempt is made to lift the plant.
The purpose of cutting the side roots at the drip line leaving the bottom roots of the
ball intact is to force additional root growth within the ball prior to transplanting.
This root prune line should be marked in some way because at time of transplanting, the
cut of the root ball should never be within this line but outside of it since the
new root growth will take place on the outside of the location of the cut at the root
tips.
Digging: The soil around the plant to be moved should be
moist. If dry conditions exist, thoroughly saturate the soil one day before the move. This
will allow ample time for the water to dissipate. Do not soak the plant and then try to
move it. The added weight of the water and the softness of the soil will cause the root
ball to fall apart.
When determining where to make the final cut around the plant, check the stem to determine
that it is in the center of the plant. If it is, the drip line of the plant is a
reasonable guide for your cut. If the stem is off center, then the stem should be the
primary guide. One should center the stem but not cut inside the drip line. The depth of
the root ball should be approximately one-third to one half the height of the plant.
Boxwoods do not have deep roots but it is necessary to get a solid ball. A spade with a
face approximately 16" long should be used in order to get the depth of root ball
desired on larger plants. A normal round point shovel would be fine for a plant
12"-15" tall because the shovel would penetrate 10", but on a 30"
plant a spade penetrating 15 inches is desirable.
Make a circumferential cut with the spade angled slightly inward. After cutting once
around, cut around again to insure that all lateral roots have been severed. At this
point. a prying action can begin. After inserting the shovel fully, pry slightly in
various locations around the plant in order to gently lift it free. When working with a
plant larger than 24", two people, each with a spade, prying together, work most
effectively. When prying constantly check the integrity of the ball to insure that it is
not breaking or cracking. It should be lifting as a unit. After a point, the ball should
"feel" free, even though it may feel heavy. The ball may then be lifted from the
hole. This is done by one or two people, each grasping at the base one or two major
branches, and lifting the ball up and out of the hole.
Planting: The planting site should be adequately prepared
ahead of time. The hole should be significantly larger than the circumference of the root
ball but not deeper. The reason for not digging deeper is that the plant should not sink.
The final level of the plant should be not be deeper than it was previously. Humus can be
mixed into the surrounding soil to lighten it since boxwoods need well-drained soil. To
facilitate drainage in heavy soil, post-holes may be dug at various points in a bed and
filled with organic humus.
Once placed in the hole, stabilize the plant prior to filling the hole to determine that
the placement and depth are correct. When planting multiple plants in the same general
location, one may stabilize all the plants in the holes in this manner to check the
placement of the group to determine whether one or more plants need adjustment. After all
minor adjustments have been made, then filling in around each can be completed. When
filling, use soil that is loose and not lumpy in order to minimize air holes. While
filling in the dirt, water liberally in order to eliminate any air pockets.
Stephen D. Southall
English Boxwoods of Virginia
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