.gif){kind=small}
There are two optimal times of
the year to root English Boxwoods. Late February / early March after the major freezes of
winter are over and before any new growth comes out is an excellent time. The other
optimal rooting period is late June or early July after the new growth has matured. Our
experiences of rooting at English Boxwoods of Virginia has shown us that both of these
times are equally effective. The timing may be based on when you pluck your
plants (SEE PLUCKING PAPER). An effective sequence
is to pluck plants in March prior to spring growth, then use these cuttings for rooting at
the same time. Plucking in July will NOT harm plants, if done properly, and the
cuttings may be used to start new plants.
Cuttings can be taken from established plants at either of these times.
Taking these cuttings accomplishes two purposes. It thins the parent plant, allowing light
and air to circulate within it, and secondly, it obviously gives the beginnings of some
fine new plants. One reason to root in February is that the parent plant fills in very
quickly, with new growth, any gaps created by the thinning process. If July is chosen as
the thinning / rooting time, one has to wait almost nine months before the new growth
appears. A small flush may occur in the fall, but this is typically not a significant
growth period nor a desirable time to encourage new growth. New growth in the fall is very
easily damaged by early frost and freezes. Although this damage does not hurt the plant,
it affects its appearance until the spring growth covers it up.
The size of the cuttings which are taken is a topic which is open for debate. Some people
root very small cuttings averaging around two or three inches in length, or smaller. There
appears to be two reasons for their choice of the smaller cuttings. One is that they think
that the smaller cuttings develop roots easier than the larger ones, and secondly, they
think that the smaller cuttings develop into a more well rounded, global plant than the
larger cuttings. My preference is to take cuttings which are approximately four to six
inches in length. Again, there are two primary reasons for this choice. One, is that I
have found no significant difference between the large vs. small cuttings in terms of
either the quality, the percentage, or the rate of new root development. Secondly, I
prefer the larger ones because with a six inch cutting I have a two year head start in
growth over a two or three inch cutting. The roundness of a plant appears to be a function
of the direction and amount of sun that the plant receives, not of the size cutting that
one starts. If the new plant is crowded very close with others, such as might be the case
in a container growing situation, the plant will tend to grow up and will not broaden and
round out. On the other hand, providing sufficient room around the plant for sun
stimulates side growth and contributes to a well-rounded appearance. An additional
factor determining shape is the trimming done on new plants to cut off any stray branches.
These cuttings are placed in a shady, sandy, moist location. The amount of moisture and
shade which is available to the rooting bed will determine how much watering and
artificial shade need to be provided. A low area in a woods is an ideal location
especially if the cuttings are placed near a stream or area which stays continually moist.
Under these conditions minimal care of the cuttings would be necessary. After placing them
into the ground, a light layer of pine tags, which still allows light to filter in, would
probably be sufficient protection to allow them to root. The basic concept involved in
this phase is that the plant can not lose water faster than it takes it in. Since it has
no roots to take water in, shade, protection from wind, and constant moisture are very
important. The cuttings are placed in the ground no less than one inch deep and no more
than three inches. If the ground is sufficiently soft for the cutting to be
"stuck" in, packing the ground will probably not be necessary. On the other
hand, if a hole has to be made with a nail for the plant, then one should pack the hole
tight around the stem. This facilitates moisture transfer between the soil and the stem.
All of us do not have these moist, shaded, low-lying wooded areas with streams trickling
through them. Approximating this ideal environment then is the best that can be done.
Areas around the typical home which may be appropriate include a predominately shaded
garden area or bed, or even under a deck or set of steps. In this environment, soil may
need to be brought in or the cuttings could be placed in pots of an appropriate soil mix.
The soil for rooting should be well drained and loose. Some suggest 1/3 sand, 1/3 peat
moss, along with 1/3 of the soil that is already in the area. My test for an acceptable
soil mix is determined by dampening the soil, then squeezing a handful of it. Upon opening
your hand, the mix should somewhat fall apart. I am letting you interpret my use of the
word "somewhat".
-3- On a commercial basis where the ideal conditions above do not exist, cuttings can be
rooted in the direct sun of July and August. While the cuttings are being put in they are
continually kept moist, and are covered with shade cloth constantly. An automatic watering
system mists the plants three to four times a day in the initial stages. This schedule is
gradually reduced over time. Shade cloth supported by hoops, shades the plants from the
direct rays of the sun.
Regardless of the location of the rooting beds, cuttings develop roots very quickly. In
mid summer roots are often visible on a cutting two or three weeks after they have been
placed in the beds. Within six weeks cuttings are often "difficult to pull up"
which indicates that they do not need to be pulled up, you know that the roots are there.
For optimal growth, cuttings should be removed from the rooting beds and placed in a more
permanent location prior to their spring flush of growth. March is an excellent time to
transplant while the cuttings are still dormant. They will then flush with the coming of
spring. It is best to transplant either before the new growth flushes or after it has
hardened off around July 1.
Stephen D. Southall
English Boxwoods of Virginia